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When assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned high-end venues. But, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has made the family totally shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small shop earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary honour.